By Jonah Yick
For years, the phrase “fresh is best” has been deeply ingrained in how we approach seafood—especially fish. It’s an idea built on good intentions: reduce the risk of spoilage, avoid unpleasant odours, and enjoy fish at its peak. Like many others, I subscribed to this way of thinking without question.
That changed a few years ago after reading The Whole Fish Cookbook by celebrated seafood chef Josh Niland. His approach, treating fish more like red meat and focusing on dryness rather than constant washing, completely reshaped my process. Since then, dry aging has become a staple in how I handle the fish I catch. The results speak for themselves: deeper flavour, improved texture, longer shelf life, amazing presentation, and a far better end product.
Even better, it’s something any fisher or seafood enthusiast can do at home with minimal setup.
A New Perspective on Freshness
Dry aging fish is a simple concept. Rather than rushing to fillet and consume your catch, the fish is kept whole and stored in a controlled, dry environment for several days. During this time, natural enzymes begin breaking down muscle fibres, improving tenderness while developing a richer, more savoury flavour.
At the same time, moisture slowly evaporates from the fish. This concentration enhances taste while also producing a dry exterior that cooks beautifully—particularly if you enjoy crispy skin.
Perhaps one of the most practical advantages, however, is flexibility. After a long day on the water, there’s no immediate pressure to process your fish. Instead, you can hang it (or them) to age and deal with properly a few days later, once the boat and all the other gear is cleaned and packed away. Obviously this may not be possible if you’ve caught large amounts of fish, but if this is the case you can pick a small number of select fish to dry age instead.
From Capture to Cooler
The dry aging process starts the moment the fish is landed. Proper handling at this stage is critical to achieving a high-quality result later.
Immediately after capture, the fish should be dispatched humanely. This can be done with a firm blow to the head between the eyes or by using the Japanese technique iki jime, where the brain is quickly spiked. This method reduces stress and prevents unnecessary muscle movement, preserving the quality of the flesh.
Bleeding is the next step. For most species, cutting the gill filaments is sufficient, while larger fish like tuna are best bled near the pectoral fin where the main artery runs. Removing as much blood as possible contributes significantly to flavour and shelf life.
For tuna in particular, removing the gills and internal organs as soon as possible is essential. These fish retain heat, and lowering their internal temperature quickly makes a noticeable difference. For other species, gutting can wait until later, but it must be completed before aging begins. Once these steps have been completed, the fish should be kept chilled in an ice slurry until you return home.
One key principle at this point is simple: don’t fillet the fish yet.
Why Whole Fish Matters
Dry aging is most effective when the fish is kept whole, or as a trunk if the head needs to be removed. This helps protect the flesh from excessive drying while preventing exposure to moisture and bacteria.
Filleting too early introduces problems. Exposed flesh tends to “sweat”, especially if placed directly on a surface such as a plate or a container and left for a few days. If fish is left in its own liquid for even a short period, it accelerates decomposition and produces that familiar “fishy” smell people try to avoid. If you try to hang the fillet to dry age you will be limited to just a few days, as the exposed flesh will end up drying to the point of being tough and hard, like jerky.
Keeping the fish intact avoids all of this and allows the aging process to work as intended.
Setting Up at Home
A standard upright fridge can easily be converted into a dry aging cabinet. By removing most of the shelves and leaving a top rack for hanging, you create a simple and effective setup.
Fish can be hung upside down by the tail using either a wire hanging hook or a loop of twine. I’ve made my own crude hanging hooks using fencing wire and conventional fish hooks. Smaller fish with strong tail wrists and thick skin can be hooked directly, while heavier fish species or fish with thin tail wrists are better suited to being lassoed to prevent tearing.
Before hanging, the fish should be thoroughly cleaned. The gills and guts must be removed, the cavity carefully wiped dry, and the exterior patted down to remove excess moisture. If you plan to eat the skin, scaling should be done beforehand.
Once hung, the fish should not be touching any surfaces, however if the head is resting on the ground it’s not a deal breaker. This allows air to circulate freely and prevents moisture from collecting. Placing a tray or bucket underneath will catch any liquid that drains during the process.
Temperature is crucial—ideally, the fridge should sit at or below 2°C. Under these conditions, most fish can be aged for three to five days.
During this time, the outside will begin to dry and firm up, sometimes appearing slightly shrivelled. While it might look unappealing, this is exactly what you want. If you decide you want a taste test or want to cook up a portion of the fish before the dry aging process is complete, there is no harm in cutting a section away from the frame, but leave the remaining fish to continue aging.
Working with Larger Fish
When dealing with larger species that won’t fit in a standard fridge, a cool room becomes necessary. I am lucky enough to have access to a walk-in cool room through a friend, along with a forklift for easy transportation into it! With enough space and proper temperature control, even large fish like barrel bluefin tuna or swordfish can be dry aged whole. I have managed to dry age whole swordfish and bluefin tuna up to 160kg in weight.
The Payoff
Once the aging period is complete, the fish is ready to be processed. Cutting through the dry outer layer should reveal firm, moist flesh beneath—clean, vibrant, and highly presentable.
The improvement in both flavour and texture is immediate, whether the fish is eaten raw or cooked.
There is one rule here that cannot be ignored: never wash the fillets. Introducing water at this stage undermines the entire process by promoting bacterial growth, accelerating oxidation, and dulling both flavour and appearance.
If any blood or residue is present, it’s best removed with paper towel or gently scraped away with a knife.
Storing the Finished Product
Fresh portions are best kept in the fridge uncovered or lightly protected, allowing them to remain dry. Placing the fish skin-side down on a wire rack, with paper towel underneath, helps manage any residual moisture and maintains quality for several more days.
For longer storage, vacuum sealing portions before freezing preserves both texture and flavour remarkably well for most fish species.
Best Species to Try
While the technique works well across many types of fish, it is particularly effective with species such as tuna, kingfish, mackerel, snapper, barramundi, and trevally.
A Different Way to Think About Fish
Dry aging challenges the long-held belief that fish must be eaten as soon as possible. With the right handling and conditions, allowing time becomes an advantage rather than a risk.
It’s a method that not only improves the final product but also makes the entire process—from catch to plate—more practical and rewarding.
